Inspection per 100,000 km: what to check in the car with a big mileage

If the car on the odometer passed for the first hundred thousand, how to: either it’s time to «merge», or check the key nodes and quietly ride further — the advice of the technical specialist.

In the life cycle of the car, the mark of 100 thousand kilometers of the mileage of the Will-Neils is perceived as a psychological frontier. What to do next? Selling, fearing global problems and moral obsolescence, or to continue operation, relying on the fact that the car did not deliver problems for the past hundred? Dilemma! We disassemble this question in detail — both by the seller and the buyer. After all, the second side also breaks his head: whether to take the attribute of «beautiful life» with a good mileage, or still inform the appetites and buy a fresh (or new) car easier.

Tell technical expert Ilya Labunumov says.

Needless to say, any car, and even more modern, need timely and high-quality maintenance. And here, I want to note here, it would be necessary to note that regular marks in the service book, even if there was a year after year, the stamps of official dealers were not guaranteed by any guarantees of the adequate state of the machine. The main task of any official is to take more money with you with minimal labor costs. From here all these «zero» are (which by anywhere the manufacturer is not spelled out) and «additional services», which often make up ¾ amounts in order-outfit on a banal planned change of oil.

The owner’s attitude to the car is much more important. As far as the person observed the uppermost truths of operation and, in principle, understands how to handle the car. For example, that it is not necessary to put gas in the floor on a cold engine (especially in winter) or carry burden in the mountains in the heat of lagging trailers on your car with automatic transmission. Of course, in the absolute majority of cases, we take the car from an unfamiliar person — this is a priori cat in a bag. Therefore, the most correct option will agree in advance with the seller about the diagnosis of the machine on a specialized

Well, now, if you are a happy owner of a car that has been knocking 100 or this is about to happen — what to watch a strategic decision to sell-or-leave? Here the situation as a whole is the same as described above: if there is not enough own knowledge, it is better to go to those skilled in the art. And already on the results of full detailed diagnostics to determine the further fate of the machine. General provisions are as follows.

Yes, yes, not the engine, namely the body. Believe the friendly advice based on the sad experience (and not only the author): if the «skeleton» of the machine has long turned into a peel with dozens of cross-cutting rushes, it is not necessary to leave it (or buy) in the hope of «sucking».

Firstly, whatever you do, no matter how straight it is not faded and not Anticarily — he will continue to rot. To successfully restore a thorough-tired body, its complete restoration is necessary. And it does not mean just to give the car into the garages to the «craftsmen», where the kilograms of the shtakli will be imposed and they will share the new paint. No. All this will come out with a new force in the next couple of years, I guarantee. Restoration is a complete disassembly of the machine with the removal of all nodes and aggregates. Ideally remains a naked body with stalks — and the welders, tinsmiths and painters are already on them — with normal access to all amazed places. But I suppose it is not necessary to explain how much it costs, and that is justified only for rare cars in astronomical budgets for recovery. Not our case. Therefore, first of all, the living body is important.

Justice for the sake of the sake of foreign cars to find a car with a mileage in a hundred, which has a bunch of holes, almost impossible. If she is not a drowned and not after «Total», of course. The foregoing is more relevant for the products of the domestic and Chinese manufacturer. Although there, even though slowly, but moving for the better every year. Nevertheless, consider that even the elimination of surface «Ryzhikov» and chips around the body will turn into a round sum.

The basic check of the engine status begins with a visual inspection. If the unit is all overgrown with mud-oil coat (and often it is often a discovery for the owner), then this is already a reason to think about both the buyer and the seller. Next usually comes the compression. Perhaps this is the most important wear indicator that is available for measuring without dismissing anything. All that is needed to perform the procedure is to remove the ignition coils and unscrew the candles. If digits 12 and above appeared on the compressometer dial — normally. Moreover, not only absolute values, but also the scatter. So, if in one cylinder showed 13, and in another 8 — the motor is clearly unhealthy, and without serious intervention is not to do.

The above parameters are indicated for example and are relevant for modern turbogo travel, where the norm is considered to be compression in 12, 13 and even 14 atmospheres. For old engines, this value will be lower — at the level of 9-12 atmospheres. In general, to understand the picture you need to find out the values of normal compression in advance for specifically your engine — this is in the repair manual.

Another well-known method of DVS diagnostics is not instrumental, but, nevertheless, very rather indicative. You just need to unscrew the lid of the oil-tapping neck on the engine running. If from there actively went smoking — the motor is uniquely bad. It is evidenced by either the fully scored ventilation system of crankcase gases (VKG), or, which is much worse, about the rained piston rings. If in the first case, the repair will be released not very expensive, then the second scenario definitely implies the bulkhead of the engine (if there is a goal to do normally).

We will be frank: the same as in the case of the body to «lay» even a modern small-sized engine to the state of 100 thousand, you need to try to very much. The only question may cause a gas distribution mechanism (timing). Alas, the current tendencies are such that this system often requires maintenance (replacement of the chain / belt) on mileagers even smaller. Therefore, if the motor’s motor approached a hundred, residual RMS resource must be concerned in any case.

Everything is easier here. If there are no extraneous knocks, squeaks or other similar anomalies on the go — already well.

The second factor is directly the behavior of the car on the road. It should not take away anywhere, to drive in a kola or rearrange at speeds on irregularities (such as the junction of the roadway). In short, the objective state of the suspension is checked by the sensations from the ride — it is more important than the grandfathers of swaying levers. The author of these rows has repeatedly encountered situations when «sentenced» such here, the suspension testing with the installations was safely traveled by a single year — without noise, knocks and inspections on the road. Therefore, the wizard’s remarks on the results of the inspection are worth considering, but if you yourself do not mark anything bad on the go, you don’t need to break your head to buy all the details of the whole.

Approximately the same applies to

South of 100,000 km is often marked by whims of executive mechanisms — they begin to twist. As a result, the car slows down unevenly, with an injection. In the launched cases, the brakes are basked even on the go, which is fraught with overheating. Usually in such cases, everything is limited to the bulkhead of the calipers — it is necessary to clean the places of the pads of the pads, as well as clear the rubber anthers of the guides and the guides themselves (in the commoner «fingers»). You can do it yourself and independently, the instructions today on the Internet are full. The problem of the non-working handler, too, is usually solved by cleaning and adjusting.

Separately, I note the battery. For some reason, it is believed that the average service life of automotive batteries is 4-6 years. However, with proper operation, the qualitative factory battery is able to work and noticeably longer. So, by car by the author, the factory battery regularly worked for 8.5 years (140 thousand runs), after which the car was so sold with her under the hood. The hard secrets of the long life of the battery have long been known: do not allow deep discharge, and if this happened — to fully charge the intellectual charger, at the same time checking the electrolyte level.

It may exercise fatigue in the form of rogs of certain elements. Usually, in our road and climatic conditions, 100 thousand exhaust survives without problems, but already by 120-150 thousand some elements (such as clamps on flanges or transitional corrugations) can be vague and require replacement. It is decided not to be inexpensive. Much more expensive will be replaced by the catalyst, but it is almost impossible to guess its residual resource. It all directly depends on the type and quality of fuel, which the «fed» the car throughout the years of operation. In some, this element does not require replacement and after 250 thousand, and someone has an error on the catalyst lights up to the first hundred.

Oddly enough, the state of the salon can tell the buyer about the car and its owner much more than the most meticulous checks of steep equipment. The same steering wheel to a run of 100 thousand km on a normal car will not look like a single piece of piece, the buttons will not be exploded and scratched, and the driver’s seat will not push you with one of their views from the desire to sit in it. If everything is the opposite — either you are cheating with mileage, or the car «left» in a taxi, private worker or in a corporate park. In any case, it is not worth risking: the interior is the brightest Lacmus relationship to the car as a whole.

In general, it is possible to summarize that the frontier in the first 100 thousand km of mileage even for a modern car is given without any problems. If we argue from the owner with the right approach to content, then if the question of changing is not sharp, you can safely leave the car for a couple of years (or thousands of 30-50 mileage). Well, the buyer always need to follow one unshakable rule: the «honeycomb» machines are not chosen on the numbers on the odometer (which today twist all who are not too lazy), and certainly not for beautiful assurances and honest eyes. Such cars are acquired solely by actual state, which is better to evaluate in a specialized service.

Photos taken from open sources.